Stumbled upon this article from an email I subscribe to. Pretty funny and similar to some experiences I have.
Sometimes you build something for someone that’s not perfect but will help save a ton of time. But training, documenting, and providing help when he/she forgets how to use it, personnel change, and fixing bugs is always troublesome.
I had been having issues re-connecting my Bluetooth Mouse on my 2013 Macbook Pro. Following the article in the link below resolved my issue. I’ve copy + pasted the article below. It’s been driving me crazy for the past few weeks but this did the trick.
Previously, I had tried removing the device and reconnecting. It would show the spinning wheel and Connect/Disconnecting and then finally give up. I tried removing other Bluetooth Devices which also didn’t fix the issue. But hurray! Google-fu and MacRumor to the rescue.
Before proceeding, bear in mind that if your setup relies exclusively on Bluetooth for communicating with your keyboard and mouse, then you’re going to temporarily lose connection to them using the following methods, so you might want to have a backup wired input device option just in case.
Holding the Shift + Option (Alt) keys on your Mac’s keyboard, click the Bluetooth symbol in the top-right corner of the macOS menu bar. (If you don’t see it there, you need to check Show Bluetooth in menu bar in System Preferences -> Bluetooth.)
Locate the revealed Debug submenu and hover your mouse cursor over it.
Click Reset the Bluetooth module.
Now, restart your Mac.
You’ll notice a couple of other potentially useful options in the Debug submenu. Factory reset all connected Apple devices does exactly what it says – forces any Apple-branded Bluetooth accessories back to the default settings they came with out of the box. It’s a reliable fallback option if you’ve tried everything else to fix a connection issue, including resetting the Bluetooth module.
Lastly, the Remove all devices option might prove useful if you’re moving your Bluetooth mouse and keyboard to another Mac, for example. However, you can also remove devices on an individual basis from the macOS menu bar, as long as you hold down Shift + Option (Alt) before you click the Bluetooth symbol.
Removing devices in this manner means you’re not also banishing a whole bunch of other established Bluetooth connections like speakers and so on that you might want to keep.
I’ve pulled this information off of a website I found after Googling a strange issue. A user reports an issue that they are either receiving repeated notifications that an invitation was accepted, or a contact they accepted a meeting request to is receiving repeated email acceptance notifications. This article is dated (January 2018) but the issue appears to persist even in 2019.
In summary, there has been ongoing issues for awhile with Activesync (Microsoft’s technology) and iOS (Apple’s technology) devices. I’ve found this issue pop up over the years with a handful of users. Unfortunately, this is a sad way to resolve the issue. But at the moment, I have not seen a better solution.
This issue is caused when iOS 9x users accept meetings on either their iPhones or iPads with the native iOS Exchange Active Sync.
In order to fix this issue, the iOS user (who is sending the meeting acceptance messages) needs to turn off mail and calendar syncing on their mobile device and then turn it back on to stop the flow of the acceptance messages.
On the iOS device – go to Settings – Mail, Contacts, Calendar – Select the account – turn Mail and Calendar Sync Off – Choose “Delete from My Phone”.
Wait a few minutes then turn the Mail and Calendar Sync back On. Note: It will take a while for everything to sync again.
Our general recommendations are:
When you receive a meeting invite wait a few minutes before accepting or processing it. Allow time for all your devices (phone, desktop, home) to get the message synced to them.
Do NOT accept/respond to meeting invites and updates from your mobile phone or device. Wait until you are at your desktop or log into the web client at office365.uiowa.edu to respond from there.
For a person doing the scheduling: do not create meetings on mobile devices (personal appointments are ok just don’t invite others). Use a desktop client or web client to schedule meetings. When an occurrence of a recurring meeting needs to be moved or updated, it is best to cancel the occurrence and create a new one time meeting on the correct date. Also, don’t schedule recurring meetings for longer than 6 months. Start a new series instead.
I was doing some Hard Drive Upgrades to Solid State Drives in our office and all was going well until I tried doing three computers simultaneously. I would repeatedly get errors even after defragmenting, clearing hibernation, page files, etc. It just became too time consuming to try and troubleshoot. So I read some forums and found out about Macrium Reflect. It is a free hard drive backup/cloning software that has worked really well when the Samsung Data Migration would not. Here’s a link to Macrium’s Site: http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx After installing Macrium Reflect, these are the steps I did to successfully clone. Your mileage may vary but I have had more success with this than with the Samsung Data Migration as of late. 1. Open Macrium Reflect. Shortcut on desktop: 2. Click Clone This Disk… 3. Click Select a disk to clone to… 4. Click Select a disk to clone to…then select the disk – in this example Disk 2 5. Click Copy Select Partitions and it will copy all partitions from your existing drive. Note that if your drive is not larger, your partition will be shrunken as noted.Click Next. 6. Click Finish. It will take some time for it to clone depending on how much data you have and the connection type you used (SATA v USB, etc). Once complete, shut down your computer. Swap your old hard drive for your new SSD. Boot to BIOS and change/verify your SATA Operation is AHCI. I install Samsung Magician and set the OS Optimization to Max Performance or Max Reliability. This typically requires a restart. You can Over Provision or run maintenance. Using RAPID Mode is nice as well but I’ve run into failures there too.
I ran across this issue today while installing Adobe Acrobat X on a Windows 7 64-bit PC.
I followed these steps taken from the link below – this KB applies to Acrobat 8 but also worked for the newer version, Acrobat X.
Windows 7 64-bit version
Manually extract the file “adobepdf.dll_64” from the data1.cab file before installing Acrobat. When the prompt appears, navigate to this file and select it.
I think you can right-click and save the target from the link above.
Navigate to the folder that contains the setup.exe file for your Acrobat X installation.
Locate the file “data1.cab” and open it – I used 7-zip because it is free – (you sometimes need a third-party compression utility, such as WinZip, to extract the file).
Inside the content listings, locate the file “adobepdf.dll_64” and copy it to your desktop.
Rename the filename from adobepdf.dll_64 to adobepdf.dll
Browse to desktop and locate the file you just copied
I was not able to change the dropdown for type selection. Note: If the file cannot be selected, change the file type drown down in the dialog box to “Files of All Types.” Or, rename the file to “adobepdf.dll” by removing “_64” from the end of the filename extension.
Follow these steps to create installation media (USB flash drive or DVD) you can use to install a new copy of Windows 10, perform a clean installation, or reinstall Windows 10.
Before you download the tool make sure you have:
An internet connection (internet service provider fees may apply).
Sufficient data storage available on a computer, USB or external drive for the download.
A blank USB flash drive with at least 8GB of space or blank DVD (and DVD burner) if you want to create media. We recommend using a blank USB or blank DVD, because any content on it will be deleted.
When burning a DVD from an ISO file, if you are told the disc image file is too large you will need to use Dual Layer (DL) DVD Media.
Check a few things on the PC where you want to install Windows 10:
64-bit or 32-bit processor (CPU). You’ll create either a 64-bit or 32-bit version of Windows 10. To check this on your PC, go to PC info in PC settings or System in Control Panel, and look for System type.
System requirements. Make sure the PC meets the system requirements for Windows 10. We also recommend going to the PC manufacturer’s website for additional info about updated drivers and hardware compatibility.
Language in Windows. You’ll need to choose the same language when you install Windows 10. To see what language you’re currently using, go to Time and language in PC settings or Region in Control Panel.
Edition of Windows. You should also choose the same edition of Windows. To check what edition you’re currently running, go to PC info in PC settings or System in Control Panel, and look for Windows edition. Windows 10 Enterprise isn’t available in the media creation tool. For more info, go to the Volume Licensing Service Center.
Select Download tool now, and select Run. You need to be an administrator to run this tool.
If you agree to the license terms, select Accept.
On the What do you want to do? page, select Create installation media for another PC, and then select Next.
Select the language, edition, and architecture (64-bit or 32-bit) for Windows 10. This table will help you decide which edition of Windows 10 you’ll choose:
Your current edition of Windows
Windows 10 edition
Windows 7 Starter
Windows 7 Home Basic
Windows 7 Home Premium
Windows 7 Professional
Windows 7 Ultimate
Windows 8.1 with Bing
Windows 8 Pro
Windows 8.1 Pro
Windows 8/8.1 Professional with Media Center
Windows 8/8.1 Single Language
Windows 8 Single Language with Bing
Windows 10 Home
Windows 10 Pro
Windows 8/8.1 Chinese Language Edition
Windows 8 Chinese Language Edition with Bing
Windows 10 Home China
Select which media you want to use:
USB flash drive. Attach a blank USB flash drive with at least 8GB of space. Any content on the flash drive will be deleted.
ISO file. Save an ISO file to your PC, which you can use to create a DVD. After the file is downloaded, you can go to location where the file is saved, or select Open DVD burner, and follow the instructions to burn the file to a DVD. For more info about using an ISO file, see Additional methods for using the ISO file to install Windows 10 section below.
After the installation media is created, follow the steps below to use it.
After completing the steps to install Windows 10, please check that you have all the necessary device drivers installed. To check for updates now, select the Start button, and then go to Settings > Update & Security > Windows Update, and select Check for updates. You may also wish to visit your device manufacturer’s support site for any additional drivers that may be needed.
Dropbox is a great tool for keeping files synced between your devices – smartphone, ipad, or computer(s). But one thing many people may not realize is that you don’t need to install the dropbox client. In other words, you can access your files without needing to have the program installed on your computer.
Click sign in instead of download. Some people may miss this because it is not emphasized.
Extra tip: I use Google Chrome for my Internet Browser. https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/. Be aware that it may set your default browser to Google Chrome. This tends to cause errors if your website uses .net framework. Other tools I use: Evernote, Google Drive, Microsoft OneDrive.
If you use Outlook and have mailbox constraints, using Mailstore Home has really been useful for me in archiving my emails. Archiving in the sense that I want to have a stored copy of emails from the past. The search function seems to be much faster than native Outlook and it doesn’t need the Windows Search Indexer to do anything. It can potentially duplicate your Outlook OST but overall it is fairly simple to use.
When my company was searching for an email archive solution, I had found this product. We have now moved to the cloud using Office 365 – Exchange Online.